- Exfoliation Mistakes You Should Avoid
- You're Forcing Your Skin to Overcompensate
- You're Going Too Hard, Too Fast
- You're Not Doing Your Body Good (or At All)
- You Think a Dry Scrub is Most Effective
- You're Not Moisturizing Afterwards
- You're Making Your Breakout Worse
- You're Not Going Au Naturale
- 15 Makeup Tips and Tricks Every Girl Should Know – The Trend Spotter –
- 1. Using a Spoon to Easily Apply Mascara
- 2. Never Put Concealer on Your Eyelids
- 3. Using Tape or Spoon for Cat Eye Look
- 4. Shape Your Eyebrows
- 5. Heating Up Eyelash Curler
- 6. Match Lip Colour with Cheeks
- 7. DIY Gel Eyeliner
- 8. Quick Smokey Eye
- 9. Make Your Lipstick Last Longer
- 10. Fake the Cheekbones
- 11. Exfoliate Your Lips
- 12. Tightlining
- 13. Lighter Coverage Trick
- 14. Fuller Lips
- 15. Luminous Skin with Your Foundation
- A SHOT OF CAFFEINE FOR YOUR SKIN! Interview with Poulad Djamali (SK 2009)
- Trend Spotting: Delicacies as beauty ingredients
- TABS 2017 Personal Care Trendspotter
- New Product Trends from Dove
- Probiotics in Skin Care: Worth the Hype?
- Masks – Bubbles and Activated Charcoal
- Natural, Non-toxic Components in Personal Care
- Superfood Skin Care
- At-Home Skin Care Devices
Exfoliation Mistakes You Should Avoid
When it comes to exfoliating, the worst mistake you can make is not doing it. Because, beauties, if you've ever wanted skin that glows, feels as tight as a drum and as soft as a baby's arse, there's one surefire way to get it: exfoliation.
Moisturizers will promise the same results all day long, though following through on all those promises is hit or miss. And even if they do deliver, it usually takes weeks to see any results. Not so with exfoliating.
Done right, you'll have a gorgeous complexion in 10 minutes or less.
Convinced that this is a must-have addition to your beauty regimen yet? For those women who exfoliate on the reg, take note: Even the most faithful exfoliating adherents might be sacrificing their perfect skin by making one of these mistakes listed below. I was one of them! So read (and then exfoliate) on.
You're Forcing Your Skin to Overcompensate
Any woman who's seen the effects of a good exfoliation job firsthand will be tempted to think, “The more the better.” But this just isn't true. Especially for women with oily or dry skin.
If you slough off the surface layer of dead skin too often, your body will overcompensate by producing more oil or becoming even drier. You really shouldn't be exfoliating more than two times per week, three tops.
And for most women once a week is perfect.
You're Going Too Hard, Too Fast
Again, you might think, “If I go harder, my skin will be even softer and glow even more!” But your skin is delicate. If you cut it, it bleeds. And exfoliating scrubs, brushes and stones can cut it at the microscopic level, causing damage that might even produce scarring in the future. But you'll never have to worry if you use a “gentle, circular motion” to wipe away dead skin.
You're Not Doing Your Body Good (or At All)
Removing that top layer of dead skin on your face does wonders for reviving and removing that pasty or gray, dull hue you get from natural dryness. It helps new cells literally shine on the surface.
Skin not only looks better, it IS better. Healthier. And younger. So why save all that for your face? Give your body the treatment too, and don't forget your hands, neck and chest.
Your middle-aged self will thank you.
You Think a Dry Scrub is Most Effective
Dry scrubbing is a bad idea. any other effort meant to supercharge your exfoliation efforts (and results), this leads to all kinds of damage. It's painful to even think about it. Always make sure you've got water in the mix when you exfoliate.
You're Not Moisturizing Afterwards
So, you're using water (which is good) but water, especially warm and hot water, robs your skin of its moisture.
And since you've just taken off a layer of dead skin, you've just removed a protective barrier that keeps your natural moisture inside. (Albeit, an unattractive barrier, but a barrier nonetheless.
) What to do? Moisturize as soon as you're done exfoliating, every time.
You're Making Your Breakout Worse
Full disclosure, I've actually cured a major bangs-induced forehead breakout via exfoliating (gently) with baking soda. In part because baking soda is antibacterial.
The extra oil and bacteria were killed off, helping those little white bumps go bye-bye.
Having said that, if you have a rash, eczema, rosacea or the type of breakout that's broken skin, you need to skip exfoliating and treat it with proper care (preferably prescribed by your dermatologist).
You're Not Going Au Naturale
Finally, read the label of whatever you purchase to exfoliate. The beauty industry is still, sadly, rife with harsh chemicals. Before you're tempted to buy that little $50 miracle jar that promises exfoliation beads and 13 other benefits, try something natural instead.
Baking soda made into a paste with water is an alternative I swear by, but you can also use brown or white sugar, and oatmeal. Don't forget the water! Give “DIY exfoliating” a Google search and see what you come up with.
When you do look at recipes, make sure you find one that says it works for your particular skin type.
15 Makeup Tips and Tricks Every Girl Should Know – The Trend Spotter –
Achieving the perfect makeup doesn’t need to be complicated or time-consuming. Thanks to these handy tips and tricks you’ll never have to feel frustrated in front of the mirror again.
Whether you’re wondering how to nail the perfect cat-eye or make your lipstick stay on longer, you’ll find the best advice right here.
So, no matter if you’re a beginner or somewhat of a pro, you’re sure to learn a thing or two from these helpful hints.
RELATED: Step by Step Guide To Makeup Application
1. Using a Spoon to Easily Apply Mascara
Every lady has been through the pain of finishing her eye makeup only to realise she’s somehow ended up with mascara on her lids. Well, thanks to this hack, you can banish that pesky problem for good.
All you need is a spoon from your kitchen, and you’ll soon have perfect mascara every time. Just place the end of the spoon underneath your lashes before applying your mascara as normal.
Now, any residue or excess product will end up on the back of the spoon instead of on your face.
2. Never Put Concealer on Your Eyelids
Although you may be tempted to apply concealer or foundation to your eyelids as a base, you should always refrain. While using concealer under your eyes is a great way to mask dark circles and under-eye bags, applying it to your eyelids can ruin your eye makeup by causing it to become creased.
3. Using Tape or Spoon for Cat Eye Look
Creating the perfect cat-eye look with eyeliner can be tricky. Not only is it hard to get the ideal flick and shape, but you also need each side to match.
For an easy way to nail the perfect feline flick, try using a spoon or some tape. Start by creating a straight line from the outer corner of your eye following the edge of the spoon.
Then, trace around the curved edge from the end of your flick back down to your lashes and fill in the wing.
4. Shape Your Eyebrows
Shaping your brows needn’t be difficult, just follow these steps. Start by brushing your eyebrows with a spoolie, so the hairs sit naturally.
Then, use a soft, waxy brow pencil to shape the outside of your brow with the thinner side of the tip. Using the flatter angle of the pencil, fill in your brows using short, hair- strokes.
Finally, blend some highlighter just below your brow bone for lift.
5. Heating Up Eyelash Curler
If you find that curling your lashes the regular way only keeps them lifted for a short amount of time, try heating up your curler before using it.
Just as your curling wand helps your hair hold its shape with heat, so too can your eyelash curler. Just use your blow-dryer to hit your eyelash curler with a blast of hot air.
Once heated, allow it to cool slightly, so you don’t burn your eyelids. Then, clamp your lashes as per usual.
6. Match Lip Colour with Cheeks
Matching your lip colour with your cheeks creates a lovely, coordinated, and natural appearance. To achieve the look without a dual-purpose product, you can easily turn your favourite lip crayon into a cream blush. Just apply some to the back of your hand before using your finger to blend it across your cheeks.
7. DIY Gel Eyeliner
If you’re ever in desperate need of some gel eyeliner and don’t have time to run to the shops, you can create your own. All you need is a regular kohl eye pencil and a lighter or match.
Then, hold the pencil under the flame for one second before allowing it to cool for 15. The consistency of the pencil will change before your eyes as it becomes softer and easier to apply.
Your new smudgier, gel eyeliner should now simply and smoothly glide onto your eyes.
8. Quick Smokey Eye
While a lot of smokey eye looks require several different shades of eyeshadow and a whole lot of blending, there is a fast and easy alternative. Simply use an eye pencil to draw a slanted hashtag above the outer corners of your eyes and blend with a smudger. Doing so will instantly create a killer smokey eye that’s dark and light in all the right places.
9. Make Your Lipstick Last Longer
Whether it’s a wineglass or your husband’s cheek, lipstick has a knack for ending up everywhere but on your lips.
If you find that yours keeps disappearing before the end of the day, try employing this handy trick to give it a longer life.
After swiping on your lippy, place a tissue over your lips and dust on some translucent powder. Doing so will help set your colour and make it instantly longer-lasting.
10. Fake the Cheekbones
Although not everyone is born with killer cheekbones, we can all fake it. All it takes is some simple sculpting.
Start by puckering to find the hollows of your cheeks and apply a deep nude blush or contour powder in the sunken area under your cheekbones.
Next, apply a peachy blush starting from the apples of your cheeks and moving outwards while lightly blending with the nude blush beneath. Finish with a sweep of shimmer along the top of your cheekbones and under your temples.
11. Exfoliate Your Lips
To easily achieve soft and smooth lips that are lipstick ready, exfoliate by gently rubbing them with a baby toothbrush. To make the process even more efficient, use a simple homemade lip exfoliant and brush on in circular motions. All you’ll need is some brown sugar and coconut oil to create an easy, useful, and natural exfoliant.
For ladies who love a natural makeup look, tighlining is a great trick to learn. The process involves applying eyeliner right to the base of your lashes to create a fuller and more defined appearance without it looking you’re wearing makeup. To nail the tightlining technique, use a brush to gently push gel eyeliner into the roots of your upper eyelashes.
13. Lighter Coverage Trick
To create lighter coverage with your foundation, try adding one or two drops of argan oil before applying. The mixture will create a lovely, light formula that’ll easily glide onto your skin for a great result. As the oil will create a glow and help even out light reflectance from your skin, it’s also an excellent trick for looking good in pictures.
14. Fuller Lips
For ladies with a little pout, overlining can be the key to achieving big, luscious lips. All you need to do is follow Kylie Jenner’s lead and apply lip liner just outside your natural lip line, focusing on the Cupid’s bow and centre of your lower lip. The extra line will make your lips appear instantly bigger and plumper.
15. Luminous Skin with Your Foundation
Luminous skin appears youthful and radiant. To fake a glowing complexion on days when your skin’s looking a little dull, try this useful tip. Mix a small amount of golden or pearly white eyeshadow into your foundation before applying. You’ll quickly notice the incredible lift it gives your face.
A SHOT OF CAFFEINE FOR YOUR SKIN! Interview with Poulad Djamali (SK 2009)
Can you tell us about your studies at SKEMA Business School?
I completed a master’s in Business Intelligence and Knowledge Management on the Sophia Antipolis campus. It was highly specialised training and gave an avant-garde view of this field, which was still little known at the time.
The lecturers were top-notch and at the cutting edge of innovation. They had a very concrete approach to the field. They passed on tools and a way of thinking that made it possible to apply trend spotting, business intelligence and knowledge management concepts.
A real asset for my professional career, which started soon after I graduated.
How did your own story inspire you to create Terre de Mars, your coffee-based brand of skincare products, and why?
I was born in Iran and I lived there until I moved to France for my schooling. I have very positive and vivid memories of my grand-mother, who used to use coffee as a beauty secret. That’s where I got the idea for Terre de Mars in 2018.
After confirming the multiple benefits of this ingredient, my business partners and I decided to launch the first unisex brand of skincare products made from coffee.
We immediately adopted an environmentally responsible approach because, us, our skin needs to be nourished with natural ingredients.
As part of this, we took our brand through the strict Ecocert and PETA certification processes to obtain the COSMOS ORGANIC, Natural, Vegan and Cruelty-free labels. The formulations are ultra healthy and our products all have an excellent or good rating on Yuka.
Tell us a little about these products made from coffee
When applied to the skin, coffee is an excellent antioxidant known for its lipolytic properties. This vitamin-rich ingredient has a firming and plumping effect, and when it is in grain form it also exfoliates.
For our first product, we decided to present this ingredient in its most unprocessed form. So in our Résurgence and Luminance scrubs, it is roasted, ground, and added to our formula to exfoliate, moisturise and protect the skin. The product is easy to use and very pleasing to the senses.
You can immediately feel its exfoliant and moisturising qualities. After this success, we developed the rest of the range by releasing a face mask with bio-cellulose, an oil and a cream for the face, a hair oil and a hand cream.
Today, our products are sold in 25 shops throughout Europe, including prestigious stores Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche in Paris, which has believed in us since the start of our venture.
What are your plans for the future?
We are getting ready to launch other products made with coffee or caffeine extracts for our bath range by early 2020. We’re also working on targeting a new clientele, such as boutique and niche hotels and spas.
How could the alumni network help you?
We’d to develop the brand and for that there are several avenues possible: developing our online presence, expanding our list of retailers around the world, creating partnerships or capsule editions with complementary brands, and seeking additional capital to help us implement this strategy. Each of these avenues could be a good fit for an alumni today, and I’d be happy to have a chat to forge new relationships and strengthen the alumni network.
For more information, visit www.terredemars.com or contact Poulad Djamali
Trend Spotting: Delicacies as beauty ingredients
It’s increasingly common for food by-products to make their way into beauty product formulations.
Over the past several months, Welch’s partnered with an ingredient maker to make use of the grape grower’s so-called side stream products; researchers found a new use for olive oil waste; and this publication even gave an industry award for the best ingredient made from so-called recycled materials.
And while terms ‘food-grade’ and the idea that no material is going to waste resonates with some consumers, others are looking for something that’s first proven for its merits (and only later, if ever, for its ecological savings), and for something that’s also perhaps more exclusive, more rare.
Saffron is well known in culinary spaces as a spice collected from Crocus flowers. With its launch at Cosmoprof North America in Las Vegas, Nevada, earlier this summer, the personal care brand Saffron Secret has moved the distinctive spice into the beauty space.
Saffron Secret is a collection of seven hair products: a smoothing treatment, shampoo, conditioner, hair mask, and three different hair oils, all of which are formulated with saffron sourced from Spain. The brand, which manufactures its product in the US, will be launching a saffron skin care line in 2018.
Date sap is the active ingredient in French skin care brand l’Odaïtès. Launched some three years ago, the brand comprises five skin and body care products: an Intense Anti-Aging Cream, a Replenishing Anti-Aging Serum, a Radiance Anti-Aging Mask, a Make-Up Cleanser, and a Nourishing Balm for both the face and body. All of these are formulated with dates sourced from Tunisia.
The brand’s CEO Nabila Chemillier-El Hedda is showcasing the collection at this week’s Indie Beauty Expo in New York City. And she’s showing a sample of l’Odaïtès next product launch too: an enchanting exfoliant made of virtually pure date sap with finely milled date pit as the exfoliating ingredient.
Delightful foods are all around us, and sometimes it takes a lifetime of travel to help us realize how uncommon and how wonderful such foods really are. Jené Roestrof, founder and director of Luxe Botanics, has an eye for distinctive botanicals and a passion for science-based skin care.
She grew up in South Africa, where she got acquainted with unique nuts and fruits marula and kigelia.
Her brand is currently made up of three product lines, one made with marula oil, one made with kigelia, and one of which is formulated with camu camu berry extract.
The vitamin C – rich fruit grows wild in Brazil and is only available fresh from February to May, Roestrof tells Cosmetics Design.
Camu has a bit of a following as a superfood. And now, this choice fruit has a chance to make an impact as a personal care ingredient too.
TABS 2017 Personal Care Trendspotter
- New Product Trends
- Probiotics in skin care
- Using active charcoal in bubble masks
- Natural, Non-toxic Components in Personal Care
- Superfood in skin care
- At-home skin care devices
New Product Trends from Dove
Women’s Dandruff Shampoo and No-Stain Deodorant
Through their Dove line, Unilever has introduced a series of new products that address previously unresolved pain points.
The first aims to alleviate dandruff in women. Women have previously felt the need to choose between
dandruff protection and hair that feels vibrant and healthy.
Many have relied on multiple products, using a foundation of medicinal shampoos, followed by salon conditioners to restore softness and shine. Their Dove DermaCare Scalp Production line offers women a single product without such compromises.
Unilever has been expanding their portfolio of hair care products to serve a variety of markets.
But hair care isn’t the only category in which the Dove brand is offering evolutionary (perhaps even revolutionary) product upgrades. They also just released Dove Invisible Dry Spray anti-perspirant. It improves upon previous iterations in two critical ways.
First, by combining a finer milled version of aluminum chlorohydrate with a masking oil, it won’t leave white marks anywhere on clothing.
For another, this same masking oil, in addition to eliminating the white residue, also deactivates the chemical reaction between sweat, oil, and anti-perspirant that leads to those embarrassing yellowish stains on the underarms of white shirts.
With these two advancements in their product line, Unilever is blending function with aesthetics in a way that improves the lives of their customers everywhere.
Probiotics in Skin Care: Worth the Hype?
An increasing number of products have entered the market in the past few years that contain probiotics, or beneficial bacteria. While probiotics have been a mainstay of the natural supplements industry due to their benefits in promoting good digestive health, current studies also suggest such bacteria are also healthful outside the confines of the gut.
Topically applying carefully created bacterial cultures can help in regulating the composition of skin flora. These bacteria typically consist of fermented dairy cultures such as lactobacillus, which has a slightly acidifying effect on the skin, thus discouraging the growth of many pathogens.
For example, probiotics have shown tremendous potential in combating acne. Additionally, certain probiotic lysates have demonstrated benefit in the treatment of sensitive skin.
Of course, live bacteria present certain difficulties, such as the challenge of keeping them alive long enough to be of use to the consumer. One promising intervention is that of prebiotics, which are plant-based carbohydrates that contain no live strains, but they preserve the skin microflora while discouraging the growth of pathogens.
Naturally, more studies of the effects of specific probiotic strains are necessary to determine the long-term value of topically-applied cultures. But this definitely a trend that you can expect to continue well into 2017 and beyond.
Masks – Bubbles and Activated Charcoal
Bubble face masks began appearing all over Instagram in 2016, bolstered by pics of celebrity faces covered in foam. Originating in Asia, these innovative products form part of a multi-step beauty regime, and include ingredients such as white clay and sulfates.
And in 2017, the use of activated charcoal as an ingredient is becoming increasingly popular. It’s often used in products for oily complexions, as charcoal acts as a sponge dirt, oils, and toxins. This is why charcoal capsules have been ingested for many years as a standard poison control measure.
There are several popular brands of bubble masks, which range in price from $10 to around $60. While there are no objective studies as to efficacy, largely positive consumer reviews indicate a refreshing, skin-tightening effect.
Natural, Non-toxic Components in Personal Care
A trend expected to continue in 2017 is the increased use of natural, non-toxic ingredients in personal care products.
Once the exclusive domain of hardcore nature activists, companies are increasingly turning to ethical/sustainable production as a means of differentiating themselves in the market.
Last year, in the channel of natural and organic, the growth of the personal care category exceeded those of both food and supplements for the first time.
Part of this growth is driven by scientific studies that have identified risks in the cosmetics chemicals that come into contact with human skin. But this is only part of the equation.
Consumers are beginning to draw connections between health, beauty, and sustainability, and the market is experiencing a realignment as a result.
The following are nine personal care trends you can expect to continue in 2017 and beyond:
- Probiotics. A key part of the equation in maintaining health and beauty is the equilibrium of the microbiome, the millions of bacteria found in and on the human body. Rather than harsh anti-bacterials that kill everything, the industry is adding components to foster the growth and health of beneficial flora.
- Greater Transparency and “Connection” with the Product. New Hope Network makes the assertion, “Natural beauty is the new craft beer,” meaning that consumers are seeking a stronger connection to the products they buy, and are diligent about checking the label to ensure acceptable ingredients.
- Greater Product Diversity. For the first time, both luxury and value brands are occupying shelf space in the naturals section. Even conventional retailers are looking to stock more natural products due to consumer demand from all income brackets.
- Efficacy Improvements. Part of the slow adoption of natural personal care products was due to the widespread (and often accurate) perception that these products simply didn’t work. However, technical advancements are now allowing natural brands to catch up with established commercial brands in terms of efficacy.
- Waste Reduction. The personal care industry is seeing some forward-thinking manufacturers re-purposing food industry by-products. For example, Further Products makes glycerin-based soap out restaurant waste grease.
- Non-toxic Antibacterials. A few years ago, the U.S. banned triclosan, the active ingredient used in anti-bacterial soaps, due to studies closely tying the ingredient to liver damage and hormone disruption. Recent advancements have led to the rise of milder, natural anti-bacterials.
- Increased Self-regulation. Consumer advocacy has led to increased self-regulation, and trade associations are bringing together those ethical companies who are committed to only using safe ingredients.
- Essential Oils. The use of essential oils and aromatherapy continue to grow in 2017. Increased consumer interest in artisan beauty products are leading to increased retail space for products that were traditionally squarely in the realm of direct-to-consumer.
- Combining Topical and Ingestible Products. The renewed interest in the microbiome has led to interesting pairings in ingestibles (probiotics, CoQ10) used in tandem with topical beauty products.
Superfood Skin Care
Speaking of the fusion of topical and ingestibles, we are now seeing a trend where ingredients that were formerly the domain of your favorite smoothie are now being applied directly to the skin. Products featuring ingredients leafy greens (such as kale, alfalfa, and spinach) as well as açaí and goji berries have landed on the market.
Joshua Zeichner, director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai hospital had this to say: “Both kale and spinach are rich in a variety of potent antioxidants that help reduce skin inflammation. Superfoods provide our body with the building blocks it needs to function optimally, and now their benefits are being delivered directly to the skin topically.”
While benefits have yet to be confirmed scientifically, brands such as Youth to the People, First Aid Beauty, and Valentina’s Naturals have already launched new products to capitalize on this trend.
At-Home Skin Care Devices
While gizmos for depilating and buffing skin have always existed to an extent, recent years have given rise to devices that are now starting to rival professional treatments. The following bits of gadgetry can now be had at home, often for the cost of only 1-4 similar pro treatment sessions:
- LED Light Devices. More than a decade’s worth of studies indicate that certain kinds of light wavelengths can penetrate skin. Un the damaging effects of UV light, some wavelengths are actually beneficial. Certain blue LEDs can destroy the acnes bacteria that cause acne. Some red LEDs can soothe skin inflammation.
- Tria Diode Laser. Diode laser technology has been demonstrated to effectively treat some signs of aging. It can stimulate collagen to smooth out light wrinkles as well as fade pigmentation.
- Micro Dermabrasion. Most of these devices feature an exfoliating tip plus suction to whisk away dead, damaged, or pigmented skin cells.